1-Wat Phnom

Set atop a tree-covered knoll 27m high, Wat Phnom is the only hill town. According to legend, the first pagoda on this site was erected 1373 to house four statues of Buddha deposit here by the water of Mekong and discovered by a woman named Penh. The main entrance to Wat Phnom is via the grand eastern staircase, which is guarded by lions and naga (snake) balustrades. Today, many come here to pray for good luck and success in such things as school exams and business ventures. When a petitioner’s wish is granted, he or she returns the make the offering (often a garland of jasmine flowers or banana, of which the spirits are said to be especially fond) promised when the request was made. The vihara (temple sanctuary) was rebuilt in 1434, in 1806, in 1894 and most recently, in 1926. West of the vihara is an enormous stupa containing the ashes of King Ponhea Vat (Reigned 1405 to 1467). In a small pavilion on the south side of the passage between the vihara and the stupa of the smiling and rather plump Madame Penh. A bit to the north of the vihara and below it is an eclectic shrine dedicated to the genie Preah Chau, who is especially revered by the Vietnamese. On either side of the entrance to the chamber sits a stature of Preah Chau, guarded by spirits bearing iron bats. On the tile table in front of two guardian spirits are drawings of Confucius, with two Chinese-styled figures of the sages Thang Cheng (on the right and Thang Thay (on the left). To the left of the central altar is a stature of the eight-armed Vishnu.

Down the hill from the shrine is a royal stupa sprouting full-size trees from its roof. For now, the roots are holding together in their vice-like grip, but when the trees die the tower will slowly crumble. If you can’t make it out to Angkor, this stupa gives a very good idea of what the jungle can do (and is doing) to Cambodia monuments. Curiously, Wat Phnom is the only attraction in Phnom Penh that is in danger of turning into a circus. Beggars, street urchins, women selling drinks, and children selling birds in cages (you pay to set the bird free but locals claim the birds are trained to return to their cages afterwards). Pester everyone who turns up to slog the 27m climb to submit.

Fortunately it is all in good humor, and it is hard to be annoyed at those whose only aim is to eke out a living. A trip on this road will bring you fresh air from the Mekong and Bassac rivers, especially around the garden in front of the Royal Palace. It is a great opportunity to relax and chat with friends at the riverside.  Either seated on the benches or walking through the river banks you can absorb the fresh air and the beautiful view of the river.